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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.